WINE SIPPER

UPSCALE PINOT NOIR

Thanksgiving is on the horizon, which for most people means turkey on the table. At my house, and if you're reading this column, I expect at yours, that also means a few bottles of wine. The good news is that turkey is pretty much wire neutral. Any member of red or white wines pair nicely with the big bird. The bad news is that the accompanying side dishes, from cranberry sauce to oyster dressing to green bean casserole to candied sweet potatoes, make things a bit more difficult. What I look for are fruit-centered wines that have good acidity but are soft on the tannins, and foodfriendly Pinot Noir is always one of my first choices. We tried Pirtots from all …